A word about paint terminology. It is important to understand the differing painting systems so that we can all adopt a uniform terminology and better understand how to apply paint successfully to produce show winning finishes:

"Primer/Sealer" is a term, sometimes used generically, to denote the coating that seals the underlying surface (in our case, styrene, resin, brass or similar materials) and provides a uniform basis over which paint can be applied. Typically, a good coat of acrylic lacquer primer (Dupont's 30-S or 131 S are good choices) is adequate, though sometimes a coat of Dupont's VelvaSeal is necessary if the underlying plastic has a strong dye base (red, yellow or green tinted styrene typically need a sealer).

"Candy/ Toner" is a translucent element used to mix all colors, whether solids, metallics or so-called glamour/mica-pearl colors. Depending upon the ratio of the toner to the binders and other chemical agents that make up paint, the paint color might require many coats to produce the desired colors. Modern "candy paint" is a sophisticated mixture of paint elements which produces a highly translucent color which is typically applied over a high-metallic base color (silver, bronze or gold).

"High-solid" paint is as color specially mixed that increases the concentration of paint pigments mixed in with clear binders and other chemical elements. This color usually requires only a coat or two for full coverage, and is specially formulated to adhere to the underlying primer/sealer and to adhere also to the clear top coats. A "high-solid" color is a technical term and cannot be created except by an experienced paint technician.

"Clear Coat" paint is the clear protective coating applied in a Base Coat/Clear Coat or Tri-Coat system. The Clear Coat can be an acrylic lacquer or enamel format. Like the "high-solid" paint, clear paint must also be specially mixed with appropriate binders and other chemical elements to "attach" to the underlying high-solid color or the "glamour" tint coat. An appropriately mixed "clear coat" can be applied over a solid base color, but the solid base color (usually mixed in a "high-solid" format) must include special binders and other chemical elements.

"Single Stage" system is nothing more than a solid or metallic color applied over a primer/sealer. Known as a "S/S system," there is no clear paint necessarily involved in this system. Because the color must be "color sanded" with 2000 grit 3-M paper (used wet) to remove small flaws, it is usually best to only use solid colors. Sanding a metallic single-stage color almost always results in "splotches" in the color because some of the metallic paint is removed during the color sanding step.

A "Base Coat/Clear Coat" system ("B/C", as it is known in the industry) involves the application of a couple of coats of clear paint laid over a so-called "high-solid" base color that is applied, in turn, over a primer/sealer. The high-solid base color used in this system is usually a metallic color, though many so-called "solid colors" can be applied in the "B/C" system so long as the solid color is specially mixed to accept the clear top coat. This system is used by most auto manufacturers these days because it permits the overall paint film to be held to a minimum while insuring a rich, lustrous finish (because of the clear). Typically, this system would be applied like this: primer/sealer, high-solid color coat, clear top coat.

A "Tri-Coat" system ("T/C, as it is known in the industry) involves the application of a couple of coats of clear paint over a so-called "glamour" tint coat (usually involving the new mica "pearl" powders sometimes mixed in a colored toner) which is, in turn, applied over a complimentary high-solid base color (in a color matching the tint coat) that is, of course, applied over the primer/sealer. Typically, this system would be applied like this: primer/sealer, white "high-solid" underbase, white (mica) pearl, clear top coat. The system is used sometimes by auto manufacturers on upper line cars; the half-decade old Cadillac Allante used this system when the pearl white was applied. This tri-coat system depends upon the uniform application of the "color coat"

"Metalflake" is atinted paint with finely shredded or ground metallic (usually aluminum) Pieces in the base. The particles can be of varying grades. but larger than a standard "metallic" paint.

"Pearlescent" is a translucent paint with a finely ground material that has the distinctively soft and luminescent visual quality of a pearl. This paint can be tinted shades other than pearl white.

"Color Sanding" means the use of very fine sand paper, used with tepid water mixed with a drop or two of liquid soap to help suspend in water the microscopic bits of paint actually removed during the sanding process. Hobbyists should only use regular automotive refinishing 2000-grit sandpaper. The surface is very lighting sanded with this fine paper to remove the small dots of dust which invariably appear in the paint. Only solid colors (in Single-Stage painting systems) or clear coats (in Base Coat/Tri-Coat systems) should be sanded, and great care must be taken to avoid "cutting through" the solid color or clear coat to underlying primer, color coats or -- worst of all -- the base plastic, resin or brass. Lacquer single stage colors and clear coats can be successfully color sanded much sooner than can enamel single stage colors and clear coats because enamels typically take a lot longer to thoroughly dry.

Polishing. Once the thoroughly dry lacquer top coat (S/S, B/C or T/C) has been gently color sanded with 2000 grit 3-M paper, one of several polishing systems can be used. If you never want to do any subsequent painting, you can use one of the popular polishing systems, like the one from LMG Enterprises. But beware: You have to use sophisticated chemicals to remove the silicones and other barriers to paint adhesion should you ever want to add paint or repair a spot. For that reason, I prefer the Meguiars products. Start with their No. 3 ("Machine Glaze") that should be applied with a soft, slightly damp cotton cloth (an old diaper works great) and rubbed with only a mild degree of vigor to preserve the model (support the model on the underside with your hand to prevent damage). In the alternative, 3-M's "Perfect-It Rubbing Compound, Fine Cut" can be used but it's cutting action is stronger and must be used with great car. Finally, I like to use Meguiar's No. 7 ("Final Glaze") should be applied to eliminate the slight "swirls" that the 3-M and Meguiar's products sometimes produce. I don't like to use wax because it seals the paint preventing it from "breathing." Occasionally, more Meguiar's No. 7 can be applied if any slight oxidation occurs.