Question: COULD YOU EXPLAIN HOW TO MAKE WASHES. HOW TO USE THEM. ARE THERE   COMMERICAL WASHES AVAILABLE?

Answer:  Well, I think I know what you are after.  You can use almost any water based, or turpentine based, paint and thin it out so that the color is pretty much of a translucent.  The mixing formula will take a bit of experimentation.  Use a brush and then drop a bit of the paint into the recessed area on your model.  Experimentation is the key here . . .
Question: Recently when we spoke on the phone you mentioned a 2 part primer that you recommend for use over Evercoat 2 part putty. In my usual disorgainzed fashion, I lost the name of the product you
use. Please help me.

Answer:  Dupont-brand "Variprime".  This is a two-part catalyzed product --get the so-called "Fast Accelerator" for the product.  Spray on 3-4 thin coats over the course of about 30 minutes, let it cure for at least 24 hours, LIGHTLY sand with REAL '2000' grit 3-M sandpaper, wet, then apply your color coats. This product seals out body work and prevents 'swelling.'  Good luck.

Question: I still have trouble isolating body work from lacquer paint coats.  I get a "lifting" at the seam line, no matter how smooth I make the parts.  I've tried velva-seal, Floquil Barrier, and etc., but I still get the problem.  Any suggestions?  Hammering the whole car out of brass is not an option at this time!

Answer:     I used to experience the same problem, most recently with the Dream Truck2.  Here's the absolute solution that will NEVER fail you:  go buy some Dupont Variprime which needs an Accelerator (get the Fast Accelerator).  This is a two-part product that must be mixed 50-50; it is catalyzed (sort of).  Lay on a few light coats, let cure for about an hour, two more light coats (make sure there is COMPLETE coverage) and then wait for 4-8 hours and lay on the lacquer.  You can, and probably should, lightly scuff the cured Varimprime with 3-M 2000-grit wet 'n dry sandpaper to get rid of 'nibs' but if you go through to the primer/bodywork/plastic in any area, re-shoot just that area with Variprime.

Listen, you could virtually DIP the variprimed model in this stuff and it wouldn't "pop."  Try it, believe me, IT WORKS!
 

Question: Hello! I'm a long time member of  KKIM and appreciate your many contibutions to the modeling hobby.  I  would like to do a seminar at our next model car meet in March on the above subject. I recall an  article you published some time ago on this. I would appreciate it if you could help me locate this.  I have just about ever Scale Auto magazine in my library. I use the Evercoat filler and automotive primer sealer. I could go on and on........So,  I think it would be beneficial for me if you could reference the article.

Answer:  I don't recall a specific article about ghost lines; rather, I covered that topic from time to time in my Car Modeler articles.

        Here's the scoop on how to avoid that problem:

        1).     First, if you are removing a factory door line or seam or something else that had an engraved line, create a 'trough' with the line as its center point.  The angle of the trough should be about 75 or so degrees -- that is, wider at the top then at the bottom.  Rough up the adjoining 'flat' surfaces with some 400 grit sandpaper.  Fill the area with Evercoat/Eurosoft catalyzed polyester putty (use NO other kind of putty!).  Let the putty cure thoroughly.  Sand the area flat, first with 220 grit autobody paper (used dry, and use it carefully to avoid damaging adjacent surfaces), followed by a coarse sanding stick (or its equivalent) to get the area flat across the puttied joint.  Then, sand the area with medium sanding sticks.  Then, prime just the worked area (to avoid paint film build up) with lacquer primer to fill in the slight scratches left by the medium sanding stick (or 400 grit sandpaper).  Then, use Dupont's Variprimer (with the Fast Accelerator) to seal the surface; use as directed, and use with a respirator.  Let cure throughly (over night, preferably),  sand LIGHTLY with 800 grit paper to take out any 'nibs' and then use any kind of paint -hobby paint, lacquer, urethane, catalyzed acrylic enamel, ANYTHING.  No ghost lines, guaranteed.

        2.      Second, other kinds of bodywork can be 'hidden' from appearing in the final color coat/clear in the same way as above.  Bevel the custom-worked area, use only the catalyzed polyester putty, let the putty fully cure before working, use lacquer primer to fill in the small surface scratches, sand the lacquer primer with no finer than 600 paper before sealing, then apply the Dupont catalyzed sealer. (By the way, you can sand the Variprime to fix a problem area and then re-seal -- just let each coat of the sealer cure completely.  The sealer has about a 4-5 hour 'pot life' the way modelers use it).  DO NOT USE ANY SEALER THAT IS NOT CATALYZED -- Velvaseal, for instance, is a disaster.  The sealer MUST be the kind that is catalyzed.  Then, believe me, you can lay on the lacquer top coat as 'hot' as you want it, and NO, I MEAN NO, ghost lines.

        Check out my Kalmbach book on custom car modeling that will be out in June.  It shows how to build and then finish off that '40 Ford I was working on in the magazine.  I show how to use the sealer in the article, then how to apply the Dupont lacquers.  Despite an incredible amount of body work and extensive (though THIN) use of the catalyzed putty, there is not ONE ghost line in the model. NOT ONE line! 
Follow the procedure described above, and you won't go wrong.  Try it!
 
Question: Whatever happened to the putty thrower parts line? Is it gone? Coming back? Is it still possible to find some?

Answer:  Nice to hear from you.  I sold The Putty Thrower almost 10 years ago, and Ihave lost track of the disposition of the parts.  The parts still show up at swap meets, but I don't know where else you would look.

Question: When I sand off emblems or door handles and prime i can see the ghost shadow off what i sanded off i use testors spray cans to paint with or duplicolor auto primer and this does it with both

Answer:     This is a fairly simple thing to take care of.  The problem is really irritating, isn't it!!??

Here's how to solve it:  DON'T just sand off the emblem/door handle/etc.  Rather, use a Dremel (with a round head) or something like it, "gouge" out the area underlying the emblem/etc., taper the 'hole' to the surrounding area, and then fill the 'hole' with the catalyzed polyester putty, Eurosoft -- available at any good autobody supply shop (it is two-part product:  mix the catalyst with the putty, and then apply it.  It is a lot like mixing so-called Bondo).  Let the product set up, sand smooth, and paint.  If you are using a lacquer top coat and airbrush, then use the Dupont product, Variprime (another two-part catalyzed sealer).  Let that product set up, then you can apply ANY kind of paint over the top without any the 'ghosting' problem that you describe.  Hope this helps.

Question: I'm looking for LMG 0000-160 threaded rod to use as lug nut stud's on 1/24 scale stock cars. I live in Oregon and have called all across the country with no success, I know they exist. I'm using Detail Master #1 adapter fitings as the lug nuts to let you know the size rod I need in case you know someone else who makes something like it.

Answer:  There is a company called Morris.  They make that threaded rod, matching hex nuts (really!).  They make the rod in 0000-160 and 000-120 (and larger size).  Look for them on the Internet; I will try to find the catalog here.  Contact me by e-mail in about a week and I will see if I can't find the address for you.  LMG gets their threaded rod from Morris.

Question: I'm transforming a Ford '40 coupe to a 50's early Nascar racer as seen in Car Modeler sep 98 ( R.I.P.). I want to wire the flathead stock engine, but I don't know the exact place for the distributor and coil. Do you have some advice for me? Since I live in Europe, it's difficult to find accurate reference material on American cars.

Answer:  The answer is actually quite complicated.  Generally speaking, the distributor and coil are mounted to a bracket that attaches to the front of the block, but the style of the distributor changes greatly from application to application and from motor to motor.  Do you have access to a back issue of Scale Auto Enthusiast, about 18 months ago, which had a wonderful article on flathead engine detailing/wiring?  If not, let me know and I'll make you a copy of the article.

Question: I have a question about "Z-ing" a frame. I understand that it lowers the suspension, but where does the room you need to do it come from? And what would be the best way to do this on a pick-up?  So far, channelling the body and bed have been my only options to get lower than the lowered suspension can take it, and I don't really like to channel them...they seem out of proportion to me then.  Any help you can give me will be greatly appreciated.
   
Question: I am currently assembling a '32 Ford roadster model, and tried to use white gloss enamel to make the rubber wheels whitewalls. As I'm sure you know, this doesn't work. After over 24hrs, the paint remained sticky to the touch, coming off on to my fingers. This paint will clearly not take to the rubber. Is acrylic paint the answer? This is the first model I've built sibce I was a kid (I'm now 26), and I've got the bug all over again. The car NEEDS whitewalls to complete the look I'm going for. So what paint do you suggest? I would greatly appreciate any suggestions you may have.
 
Question: My question is, how do I paint the body of the model so that it is smooth and looks at its best?  I've tried Testor's spray paint, airbrushing, and putting a coat of primer on, as well as sanding.  None of these give me the best results like shown on the boxes.  Please help.
 
Answer:  Yours is a big question that cannot be answered here.  Check out my article in the next (March?) 1999 issue of Car Modeler.  I build up a vintage custom, and I paint the model using modern lacquer technology.
 
Question: I just barely remember the Car Craft Dream Rod.  I remember a friend got a model for his 9th or 10th birthday.  What do you know about it?  Do you know were I could get a photo?  Do you know the going price for that ancient kit?
 
Answer:  I know something about the car.  After its debut as the Car Craft Dream Rod, it toured the ISCA shows where it was widely covered.  Following that, and after Harry Bradley did some drawings, the car was restyled into the Tiger Shark.  That Tiger Shark version was campaigned a bit.  The Tiger Shark has been located and is presently being restored.

For the benefit of the National Model Car Builders' Museum, I sell a 30 page custom car bibliography that lists magazine references for many of the great custom cars of history, including the Dream Rod. That list costs $10.00 postpaid -- if you want a copy, visit: The Model Car Builders' Museum Store.

The original kit (a kit of the Tiger Shark was also made, thereby screwing up the Dream Rod tooling) sells for around $300.00.  You could find a kit of either version by calling Hobby Heaven (get their phone number from the advertiser's index in any issue of Scale Auto Enthusiast -- available from the newstand.

Question: I recently purchased the September 1998 edition of Car Modeled and enjoyed your Custom Clinic.  I saw that you used a hobby saw to cut the hood on the Lindberg 1953 Ford. I have an article from the May/June 1995 issue of Lowrider Bicycle Magazine, that shows using polyester thread to cut out doors and trunks. I have used it quite a few times and I think it works good. It is kind of like flossing teeth. I don't know if you have tried this method but I figured that you are willing to help us so it was the least I could do.

Answer:     Interesting idea, I'll try it.  Where can I get a copy of that magazine?  Is it available for subscription?  I would like to become more knowledgeable about the so-called lowrider modeling (terrific work, by the way!)). Your help would be appreciated with information. Thanks again for your suggestion.
 
Question: Have you ever tried to simulate a vinyl top on a model that wasn't molded with one? What is the best way to do that?  Does anyone make a grained material I could use, or is there another way?

Answer:  Architects use a VERY thin masking tape that is available at drafting stores; it comes in various widths.  Also, the 'joint' line can be laid down with thin strip styrene over which a 'pebbled' grain pattern can be applied with an airbrush (holding the gun, or spray can for that matter) back from the surface and dusting on the texture once the basic color has been applied.

A bit of experimentation is in order here.   I hope this helps.
 
Question: I have tried to open the doors on several of my models and have only succeeded in ending up with really messed up models.  I do not have any problem getting the doors cut off. I just cannot seem to find a way to make a hinge that will allow the door to open with good clearance and not too much gab between the door and the rest of the body.  If you have any hints, tips, or ideas concerning this matter they would be greatly appreciated.  Thank you for your time.

Answer:  Thanks for your note. You've asked an important question. Check out my new Kalmbach book Custom Car Modeling. There is a highly detailed article on door hinging and so forth. Go here for ordering information on this book: http://www.customclinic.com/Library/library.html